Dealing with Unique Water Problems
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Doug Ness Owner and Founder of Ness LLC, talks about water problems in Northeast Boise.
“When resolving a water seepage issue, one must look at the history of the property and the visible historic evidence left by past water issues. Many times, what might seem to be an obvious source is typically only one part of a number of active sources of the water. Also, there are sources that change depending on the season. All of these variables must be taken into consideration in order to have an accurate assessment to design a solution”.
Mary Isabell Testimonial
Here is a video from one of our customers that had a drainage problem in her house.
Gutters
Allowing water to collect under your home is a big mistake. To make the problems worse, water in a crawlspace or basement is almost never a ‘quick-fix’ situation, but easy moisture prevention may start where you least expect it, the roof. Around the perimeter of every roof should be a gutter system. Gutters do more than just keep you from getting dripped on. Their real purpose is to divert water away from the foundation of the house. They perform other tasks as well, such as preventing soil erosion, but keeping water from building up around your foundation is critical to keeping your home in one piece. Without gutters, your roof acts like a giant rain collector, funneling water straight to the sides of your home. If allowed to saturate the ground around your home, water can build up and seep in through your foundation’s cold joints and eventually build up under your home. Additional problems can ensue when winter rolls around and the water that collects around your foundation freezes and cracks the concrete.
Adding gutters may be as simple as phone call or a trip to the hardware store. Every gutter should have some basic elements: Gutter, supports, and downspouts. Each plays its own role. The gutter portion collects the water at the edge of the roof; the downspouts carry the water from the gutter to the ground and away from the house (drainage); and finally, the supports keep the gutter firmly in place when it’s holding hundreds of pounds of water.
The pieces that make up these assemblies are inexpensive in most cases. For instance, a ten foot section of vinyl gutters generally runs in the $5 range. The other pieces of gutter assembly do add up, but they are all cheaper than a cracked foundation or a mold problem.
If you’re not sure how to set up your gutter system, check your local building codes, or visit a hardware store and look at the resources they have available.
Unfortunately most people will not add gutters to their home unless they have a problem with drainage under their home. If you do find water buildup or flooding in your basement or crawlspace, don’t hesitate to call a professional. Get a few free estimates, and get the information you need to make an informed decision.
Why Save Water?
Saving water sounds great, but is it worth all the hassle? What hassle? Saving water doesn’t have to be a pain. In fact, saving water is the same as saving money, both immediately and in the long run. Cutting back on water consumption can be as simple as being aware of what you’re doing every day. Below are some tips for saving water, but what are the benefits? The most obvious benefit is money savings, but decreasing your environmental impact is also a good reason. There may be other reasons you might not consider every day such as, landscape health. Overwatering your landscaping can cause your plants to be more susceptible to fungus and disease. Having damp landscaping can also attract pests such as spiders, flying insects and slugs. Another reason is drainage. Many landscapes are not properly drained, and as a result water can collect in areas around or under your house. Having overly damp ground can cause condensation in your crawlspace or basement. It can also cause pooling in inconvenient locations. Whatever your motivation, there are many reasons to conserve water, and here are some tips to help.
Outdoors:
1. Make sure your sprinklers are not watering sidewalks, driveways, or your house.
2. Check your water bill regularly. If it’s higher than normal, you may have a leak.
3. Water when temperatures are cooler. (ie. Morning, evening)
4. Spread a layer of mulch around plants. It will help retain moisture between watering.
5. If water runs off your lawn , try watering in shorter segments.
6. If you have an irrigation controller, install a rain sensor to prevent overwatering.
7. Don’t water on windy days if possible, much of your water will be lost when it blows away or evaporates.
8. Increase your plants drought resistance by watering deeply when possible.
9. When your kids want to play in the sprinkler, set it up in a location that needs to be watered already.
10. When buying sprinklers, choose models that deliver big drops or streams rather than mist to avoid evaporation loss.
11. Plants more often die from over-watering than under-watering. Only water your plants when they need it.
12. By aerating your lawn once a year, water is delivered to the roots rather than running off.
Indoors:
1. By turning the water off while brushing your teeth, you can save 25 gallons a month.
2. Consider replacing your showerhead with a water-saver model. You can save up to 750 gallons a month, and they’re inexpensive and easy to install.
3. Find a leaking toilet by adding food coloring to the tank. If it seeps into the bowl, you have a leak. By fixing it you can save up to 1,000 gallons per month.
4. Use a bottle of rocks or other displacement device in your toilet tank. You’ll still get the flush you need, and use less water every time. (These methods are not recommended on newer, water-saving toilets. Bricks are not recommended for this application)
5. Only do full loads of laundry and dishes.
Rather than using a sink disposal, consider starting a compost pile. Disposals need a lot of water to operate.
Water Under Your House
Water issues can start from something as benign as having uncovered dirt in your crawlspace. This condition allows moisture to come up through the ground and condense on cold surfaces under your home. Another culprit is often the cold joints in your foundation. These gaps allow water to seep under your home. Yet another common cause is poor drainage around the foundation. This can happen from poorly sloped ground (grade), broken or missing gutters, or irrigation issues.
There are clearly many routs for water to enter your crawlspace, and the presence of water under home causes multiple problems. To start, there is the issue of mold. Mold and fungus buildup is obviously a health issue. The air from your home is often drawn up through the crawlspace, and thus you may be exposed to the related health hazards. The other issue mold presents is home damage. Mold and fungus love to grow on building materials. Materials such as floor joists, sills and insulation are easily damaged, and removal and replacement can cost thousands. These issues alone are cause to check your crawlspace, but there are other issues as well.
A home’s heating and cooling ductwork most commonly runs through the crawlspace. These components along with wiring and pipes are susceptible to damage from corrosion. Flexduct vents, commonly used in new ventilation systems, are designed to support their own weight, and the additional weight of water can cause them to sag or even pull loose.
An often overlooked issue in a damp crawlspace is the presence of bugs. Spiders as well as a host of other insects love damp, dark places, and the presence of moisture creates the perfect home for them. Keeping the area dry will help prevent a small ecosystem of bugs from taking up residence under your house.
These issues can be stopped before they start, or cleaned up after the damage is done. If you already have water under your home, the question then becomes, “How do you clean up the mess?” Your first step should be to immediately call a professional. The sooner they can address the problem, the less the damage will be. A professional can determine the cause of the moisture and assess the damage in order to adequately correct the issue.
Other steps can be immediately implemented, however, be extremely careful if there appears to be any mold, rodent, or spider issues. They present significant health risks if proper safety measures are not taken. If possible increase the ventilation under your home using fans, but be aware, this will only help dry out what is already under your home; it will not fix the source or remedy the mold. Additionally, you can ensure your foundation vents are clean and free from obstruction. These vents are designed to allow air to flow under your home, and keep water out. If you have a sprinkler that hits a vent, now is the time to move it. One of the most common causes of crawlspace flooding is a poor gutter or downspout situation. Ensure all gutters and downspouts are clear and directed away from the foundation. If the water seems to be collecting near a downspout, consider a downspout extender to direct water away from your home. Your crawlspace should also be clear of debris. For instance, left over building materials and personal items can soak up water and hold it for long periods of time. These items should be removed if at all possible.
These tips can help immediately, but without the help of an experienced professional, they may only address symptoms and not the cause. Inspect your crawlspace regularly and call a professional if you notice any issues.
Roof Damage
When it comes to roofs, there are really only two kinds: those that leak, and those that don’t. This may seem like a simplistic way of looking at it, but if corners are cut there is a good chance you may end up with a repair bill totaling as much as the roof itself. Always consult a professional before undertaking something like a roof replacement.
The number one rule when roofing your home is simple; water rolls down hill. Keeping this in mind, all shingle based roofs (the most common residential roof) should have some basic elements: Sheathing, underlayment, flashing, shingles and vents.
Sheathing is the layer of wood that makes a roof look like a roof. This solid surface is meant to act as a backer below the waterproofing layers, but it is not waterproof itself. Standard OSB (oriented strand board) is the most common material used, but older homes may also have plank sheathing.
Underlayment is available in many different forms, but the most common types are 15 and 30 pound felt. The pound rating here basically describes the thickness of the felt. Underlayment is a moisture barrier and provides an additional waterproofing layer over the sheathing. Using 30 pound felt is not always necessary, however it will prevent problems like ‘framing’ (the lines of the sheathing panels show through the shingles). The necessity of 30 pound felt is debated among professionals, but most feel it is a better product, especially in high wind areas where shingles may be blown off.
Flashing is thin metal sheeting used in high stress areas of the roof. In valleys, edges, and joints of any kind, water has a tendency to get in. Having metal in these areas prevents possible leaks due to gaps or cracks around expanding and contracting joints. Ask any professional roofer, and they will tell you most leaks happen around these areas.
Shingles are obviously the part of the roof you most commonly see. There are in essence, two types: three tab and architectural. Three tab shingles are a single shingle made up of asphalt fiberglass and rock granules. These shingles generally carry up to a 25 year warranty and are the thinner of the two types. They are more prone to tear off and show defects in the layers below. Architectural shingles are multiple layers of shingle laminated together. They generally carry a 30 year warranty, but in some cases are warranted for the entire length of home ownership (lifetime warranty). These shingles are heavier and more expensive, but not by much (usually only a few dollars a bundle). They are more visually appealing and come in a variety of textures.
The final element of the roof is the venting. Venting provides air flow through the attic. Having airflow will keep your roof looking better longer by preventing heat and moisture buildup. These issues can cause problems like condensation and wood rot in the roof structure. Excess heat in your attic can warp the underlayment causing leaks and unsightly wrinkles in the shingles. Proper venting can even keep the house paint looking better for longer. Most houses are not properly vented, but if you’re having a new roof put on, make sure you have the proper vents installed, or you might be replacing that roof sooner than you would like.
Whatever method you choose to roof your home, don’t hesitate to seek the help of an experienced professional. If you have a leak, moisture damage, or your old roof is just worn out, contact a licensed professional to help with your roof, and do it right the first time.
Homeowners Self-Inspection Checklist
We recommend using this checklist every spring and fall.
__1. Crawlspace standing water is absent both on and under the vapor barrier. Look for wet soil by footings, or dark colored vertical lines indicating water seepage through the cold- joint.
__2. Plastic vapor barrier on crawlspace floor should be in good condition and sealed to stem wall. Look for evaporate salts on the plastic and water stains on any wood debris. There should be no water under the vapor barrier. Moist soil under the plastic is okay, in fact, it is typical to have water droplets on the underside of the vapor barrier, but you should have no puddles of water.
__3. Crawlspace decking and floor joist staining from plumbing leaks or other penetrations.
__4. Rust on nails, black gas line pipe, and form brackets (for pouring cement) indicate a wet environment.
__5. Seal any floor deck plumbing/electrical penetrations with spray foam. Limit airflow into home from crawlspace.
__6. Insulation in good condition without evidence of water soaking. Look for water staining on Kraft-back paper on insulation. Insulation should be on entire perimeter of crawlspace or on entire floor deck.
__7. Discolored wood on decking or rim joists in north and northeast corners of crawlspace can be an indication of standing water in the crawlspace from October until March. The warm moist air created in the crawlspace condensates on the perimeter of the top of the foundation where the floor assembly and the foundation meet; this occurs during the colder months.
__8. Evidence of microbial growth on decking, floor joists, and behind insulation. Check our web site photos.
__9. Crawlspace vents open year-round for proper ventilation. Temporarily close when the temperature is below 20°F (-7°C).
__10. Crawlspace vents should not be covered by insulation. Vent should be above ground level.
__11. Air conditioner condensate discharge to the exterior.
__12. Dryer duct is properly sealed & vented to a dedicated discharge, with no crawlspace vent within two (2) feet. Look for lint in wash room collecting on horizontal surfaces; this shows dryer exhaust leakage.
__13. Fans from areas such as bath, laundry, stoves, etc, exit to the exterior and are sealed for leaks.
__14. Gutters and downspouts are adequate to catch rainwater from roof, and routed to discharge 3-5 feet or more away from foundation walls or crawlspace and vents. With some soils, gutters may not solve a water intrusion problem.
__15. Sprinklers should be installed at least two (2) feet away from foundation walls or changed to “Drip System” along foundation walls. Check to ensure water doesn’t spray on siding.
__16. Wood trim on windows, doors, stucco. Look for gaps, swelling, cracking, caulk pulling away, and any discoloring.
__17. Staining on Soffit shows various roof leaks.
__18. Check attic for drip staining from condensation or roof leaks from flashing dripping onto insulation.
__19. Attic microbial growth (spotting) on decking and roof joists.
__20. Bathroom condensation spots on ceiling indicate a lack of ventilation. Discoloration or staining on sheetrock, vinyl, or separation around tub, shower, or vanity show water leaks.
__21. Interior window condensation in winter indicates excess moisture in the house, dryer leaks, or water in crawlspace. Look for water seepage into wall cavity from leaking windows.
__22. Interior painting – look for symmetrical staining on top of walls and ceilings indicating soot staining from scented candles or combustion of lint from dryer through an electric wall heater.
__23. Linoleum discoloration or swelling indicates water intrusion.
__24. Wood flooring warping or ridges can indicate water intrusion in crawlspace or a water leak.
__25. HVAC operation, check to see if duct system needs cleaning, dirty filters, ducting leaks. See also HEPA Filtration & Fresh Air Exchange Systems.
Ness does crawlspace evaluations, Infrared Imagery Diagnostics to identify water intrusion in roofs, walls, plumbing and energy efficiency. Also, Ness provides the restoration services to correct any problems in your crawlspace. Visit our website at www.nessllc.com
Winterizing Your Home
Winterizing your home may seem insignificant, and it may easily get put on the backburner. In the past you may have been through winters without damage to your home. If this is the case, wonderful, you may already have some winterizing in place; however, there are always unexpected events. The temperature unexpectedly dips lower than average; there is an unusually strong wind that buffets your house, or your neighbor breaks the waterline for the whole block. Whatever the case, don’t let your home be subject to winter damage. Winterize it now.
There are some large projects like replacing old windows that may be a bit overwhelming, but some things are simple maintenance. Here are some simple tips to make your home winter safe.
- Check for air leaks around windows and doors. Seal them with weather stripping or calk.
- If you have storm windows, install them.
- Replace worn roof shingles or tiles. Remember, water will be sitting on your roof if it snows.
- Clean out the gutters and spray water down the downspouts to clear away debris.
- If your gutters freeze solid they can rip off the house and allow water to damage the walls and foundation below. If your gutters do freeze, try pouring de-icer on top of the ice to clear them.
- Clear away all debris and vegetation from the foundation.
- Inspect siding for crevices, cracks, and exposed entry points around pipes; seal them.
- Seal foundation cracks against water and mice.
- Inspect sill plates for dry rot or pest infestation.
- Check your crawlspace for moisture and ensure your floor insulation is in place.
- Secure, seal, and insulate crawlspace entrances.
- Insulate exposed plumbing pipes. Add pipe heaters if necessary. They can be purchased at most home improvement stores.
There are obviously many ways to winterize your home, and these tips may only be a starting point. For more in-depth tips contact a professional company capable of handling all of your needs. Ness LLC’s 360 program covers every aspect of your home, big or small. They can inspect your crawlspace, winterize your home, or perform major construction if needed. Take care of your home, and avoid possible messes in the future.
Mold: Cause, Effect, Solution
Mold is part of the natural breakdown process of organic matter, so why does it seem like so many people are afraid of it? Mold can create bigger issues than ruining your old pizza. The EPA breaks it down as follows: “Molds produce allergens, irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances. Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people.” Mold can also cause more serious issues such as flu-like symptoms, headaches, dizziness, fatigue, nose bleeds, and the list goes on.
These health effects should not be taken lightly, and you should contact a physician if experience them. So since mold is so bad, how should mold be prevented? Mold spores act like microscopic seeds in many ways. They float through the air inside and outside, and grow when they land on damp surfaces. Preventing mold spores from entering your home is impossible, but it is possible to prevent and control moisture buildup.
Ensure all areas around and under sinks are dry and free from leaks.
Don’t allow water or damp items to sit in your sink or washing machine.
Check basements for musty smells and humid climate, and inspect basement walls for condensation.
Empty trash cans regularly to ensure mold is not allowed to build up.
Check bathroom cabinets where moisture may build up, and use exhaust fans whenever possible.
If liquids are spilled, clean them up and dry them out as soon as possible.
Last but possibly most importantly, check your crawlspace for moisture buildup.
These tips are only some of the ways to prevent mold. If you find small amounts of mold in your home, you may be able to clean it up yourself, but you may only be cleaning up the evidence to the problem. Despite popular belief, spraying mold with bleach won’t fix the situation, because dead mold spores can still cause health problems. It’s always best to consult a professional if you find mold buildup in your home. By having a professional clean, remove, and seal your home against mold, you can prevent health hazards before they start.
There are steps to take as well to prevent mold from ever having a chance to grow.
When choosing paint, floor covering, and building materials, ask for ‘mold-resistant’ options. Some materials are chemically treated to resist mold.
Clean your home regularly with cleaners that kill mold and mildew.
Probably most the most important factor though, is preventing moisture buildup.
Is Your House Safe from Fire?
“Residential structure fires represented approximately 85 percent of all fire deaths and 77 percent of the injuries to civilians in 2009. Between 2000 and 2009, an average of 2,919 civilians lost their lives and another 14,081 were injured annually as the result of residential structure fires” (firesafety.gov).
Though the risk of residential fires has decreased over the past few years, having a fire-safe house is key to you and your family’s safety. Perhaps the most important step to creating a fire safe home is proper smoke detection. “The death rate per 100 reported fires was twice as high in homes without a working smoke alarm as it was in homes with this protection” (nafpa.org). Other factors obviously contribute to a safe home, but smoke detectors are an easy and important first step. When looking for smoke detectors keep a few things in mind.
1. The cheapest smoke detector is probably not the best.
2. Specific smoke detectors are made for specific areas. Check the package for specifications.
And finally,
3. It’s easier to prevent a fire than restore your home after one, so make sure to get enough smoke detectors to cover your entire house.
Make sure the smoke detectors you purchase are UL listed. Every room used for sleeping should have a smoke detector as well as one on every level of your home. Alarms should be placed where they are exposed to air that naturally circulates and not in corners or low on walls. Of the various types of alarms, photoelectric alarms are more effective at detecting slow, smoldering fires, which can smolder for hours before bursting into flame. Sources of these fires may include cigarettes burning in couches or bedding. Hardwired alarms tend to be more reliable than battery operated only models, but if hard-wiring a system is not an option, be sure to purchase a model that alerts you when the battery is low, and test your smoke detectors often (at least six times a year or more).
In 2009 residential losses from fire totaled more than $7,796,000,000 (firesafety.gov). Repairing and restoring your home after a fire can be a painful and lengthy process. Though you may be able to contain a fire once it starts, smoke damage can easily cause havoc throughout your entire house. Call a professional if you have fire or smoke damage. There are special measures that must be taken to ensure your house is structurally sound after a fire; also, cleaning and sealing smoke damage is not easily achieved, so have it done by someone with experience.
Don’t take the chance. Prepare your home, and call a professional if your home is damaged.
